Prologue
The Kottayam Heritage Tour organised by Roots & Roads is a journey back into the rich and fascinating past of Kottayam town.
This one-day historical exploration begins at Thalikotta, bearing the heritage marks of the Kingdom of Thekkumkoor. It was from the inland trading centre of Thazhathangady, on the banks of the Meenachil River, that the seeds of urban development were sown. The journey progresses by listening to stories of migration, trade and invasion, while experiencing the cultural heritage handed down through generations.
On top of Mount Thali once stood a fort built of laterite stone, with four gateways and six bastions. Within it stood the Thaliyil Temple and palace complexes. For nearly six and a half centuries, the rulers of Thekkumkoor governed their kingdom with Thaliyil Fort as their capital. Thekkumkoor’s administrative capital, known as Kottayakam—a name derived from the fort, the settlement around it and its three bazaars—lost its importance after Travancore established supremacy over Thekkumkoor in 1749 CE.
The present-day town of Kottayam developed and expanded around Thirunakkara during the latter half of the nineteenth century. The shift of the urban centre towards Thirunakkara followed Kottayam becoming a Division headquarters of Travancore, in anticipation of the town’s future development potential. This journey traces and explores the history of that transformation. Kottayam was among the earliest centres of educational progress in Kerala, and the tour also includes institutions that played a pioneering role in the introduction of English education.
The journey begins in front of Thaliyil Mahadeva Temple in Kottayam. This temple is the only surviving historic monument within the former Thaliyil Fort and remains an important reminder of the history of the Thekkumkoor dynasty.
It was around the fifteenth century that the Thekkumkoor royal dynasty fortified the area around Thaliyil Temple, built palace complexes and developed it as its administrative capital. Before this, their capitals were successively at Vennimala, Manikandapuram and Changanassery. Changanassery later continued as an important town and another royal centre. The location, formerly known as Thaliyanthanapuram, was selected as the capital partly because of the opportunities it offered for expanding trade at Thazhathangady.
The fort was built of laterite blocks to a height of about twelve feet and was surrounded by a moat approximately seven feet wide. According to local tradition, crocodiles were kept in the moat. The fort had four gateways and six bastions. Outside the eastern gateway, on the right, was a military camp known as the Palayam. The famous Palayathil family of Ayurvedic physicians in Kottayam also lived in this area.
Thaliyil Mahadeva Temple is regarded as one of Kerala’s eighteen-and-a-half Thalis. During the Perumal period, the Thalis—Shiva temples where Brahmins assembled to advise the rulers on matters of administration—were important centres of authority. The temple occupies the highest point of MountThali.
Facing west, the temple is distinguished by the elaborate stonework of its sanctum. The murals surrounding the shrine, together with the sculptural work in laterite, are particularly noteworthy. The mural tradition known as the Vembanad style is believed to have originated here. Many of the murals have faded considerably due to inadequate preservation in the past.
Among the surviving paintings are representations of a Muslim dignitary riding a camel and another figure, apparently a Chettiar, riding an elephant. Other notable paintings include a Shiva yogi blessing the Thekkumkoor king, a Yakshi applying a tilak, and Shasta hunting. Along with mythological narratives and various deities, there are also scenes associated with temple rituals. The Bhuthavali painted along the upper walls is another fascinating feature.
Within the Nalambalam stands a wooden Koothambalam. A Mizhavu, said to have been donated by a king named Kerala Kothavarma, is preserved here. Local tradition holds that the great poet Kunchan Nambiar also played this instrument.
On leaving the temple and entering the circumambulatory path, a deep pond known as Kokkarani can be seen at the north-eastern corner of the temple complex. It is believed that a tunnel once began near the western side of the bottom of this pond and extended towards all four directions beneath the hill. Until about four decades ago, the entrance to the tunnel remained open; it was later closed with masonry. Local tradition holds that members of the Thekkumkoor royal family escaped through this tunnel to places of safety during the Travancore invasion.
The palace complexes once stood to the north and north-east of the temple. Today, houses occupy the area. Since the family name of the Thekkumkoor rulers was Edathil, many houses in this locality continue to bear the name Edathil.
Looking eastward from the eastern gateway of Thaliyil Temple, one can identify the approximate location of the eastern gateway of the old fort. No visible remains survive today. In 1895, the Travancore Government demolished the entire Thaliyilkotta. The stones were used in the construction of ponds and the foundations of government offices in Kottayam, while the remaining stones were sold at auction. Broken stones were used to fill the surrounding moat and convert it into roads.
At the south-eastern corner of the Thaliyil Temple complex stands a subsidiary shrine dedicated to Cheruvallikkavu Bhagavathi, the family deity of the Thekkumkoor royal dynasty. The deity is represented by a wooden image.
On the south-western slope of Thalikotta stands the Venkateswara Temple, the principal temple of the Gowda Saraswat community in Kottayam. The main deity is Mahavishnu accompanied by Sridevi and Bhudevi. The temple follows the distinctive architectural tradition of Konkani temples.
Gowda Saraswat Brahmins who came from Purakkad, Thuravoor and Kochi for commercial activities were settled in the southern and western parts of the fort. The present temple was rebuilt in the nineteenth century.
From the Thirumala Venkateswara Temple, the walk continues to Thazhathangady Street. The bazaar may have originated as early as the tenth century, but it became particularly active from the fifteenth century as Thekkumkoor influence strengthened.
Christians conducted trade on the eastern bank of the Meenachil River, while Muslims dominated the western bank. Thazhathangady is believed to have witnessed a time when Arabs and Persians arrived by boat to purchase pepper, dried ginger and other commodities.
Pepper and other products brought by water from the eastern regions were stored here before being transported to the port of Purakkad. Following the Dutch–Thekkumkoor commercial agreements, the Dutch became involved in trade in this region. At that time, numerous warehouses stood along both banks of the river for storing hill produce. With the establishment of Travancore supremacy, Thazhathangady declined, and over time the warehouses disappeared and houses came up in their place.
The Kottayam boat race is held on this stretch of the Meenachil River. A roadside stone cross, erected later in the place of an earlier wooden market cross, can also be seen.
Travelling along the riverside road, one can see beautiful heritage houses, some of them around three centuries old. Their distinctive character lies in the combination of Syrian-Portuguese influences with traditional Kerala architecture.
Among them is the mansion of the Thazhathu Tharakans, who were invited and settled here by the Thekkumkoor king to supervise commercial activities in Thazhathangady. This approximately 300-year-old house, built with remarkable architectural craftsmanship, was the ancestral home of Punnathra Grigorious Mar Dionysius, Metropolitan of the Malankara Church, and Thazhathu Chanda Pilla Kathanar, who led the religious reformation movement in Kottayam.
Kulappurakkadavu, which also served as the ceremonial bathing ghat of Thaliyil Temple, was the principal centre of commerce in Thazhathangady. The Iqbal Public Library, dating back to the period of the freedom struggle, also functions here.
Thazhathangady Juma Masjid, situated on the banks of the Meenachil River, is regarded as the earliest Muslim place of worship in Kottayam. Believed to be more than a thousand years old, the mosque testifies to the antiquity of the Muslim trading community of Thazhathangady. The present majestic mosque was rebuilt in the traditional Kerala architectural style during the period of the Thekkumkoor rulers. In the courtyard is an old sundial once used for telling the time.
Male visitors can enter the mosque and view its interior. The prayer hall contains a beautifully carved wooden minbar, or pulpit. Beside it is a sword presented by the Thekkumkoor king.
On the way out, on the left side of the wooden partition, is an ingenious traditional locking mechanism known as a Mukkuttisaksha. The door can be opened and closed only by moving its three wooden bolts in a particular sequence. It is an ingenious technology developed by traditional carpenters, comparable in principle to a combination lock.
Climbing the staircase leads to the upper wooden ceiling, where the intricate carpentry is particularly impressive. The mosque also incorporates a traditional ventilation system that allows air to circulate continuously, helping to keep the interior cool.
Kottayam Valiyapalli is the earliest Christian church established in Kottayam town. Coming from the south, one reaches the church by climbing the steps near Karikuzhikkadavu on the banks of the Meenachil River. The church stands atop Vettarkunnu.
The first church in the town was established in 1550 CE on land granted tax-free by Athichavarma, the Thekkumkoor king, for the benefit of the Christian community of Kottayam. With the arrival of the southern Knanaya Christians, known as Thekkumbhagakkar, from Kaduthuruthy, the Christian population increased and a church became necessary. The Thekkumkoor rulers, who are remembered for accommodating the needs of different communities, provided land and facilities for places of worship.
The original wooden church was later demolished, and the present structure was built in AD1570 under the leadership of Antony Mesthiri, a Portuguese architect.
The church’s sanctuary is particularly remarkable. Its paintings are also noteworthy. Two centuries-old Persian crosses, among the earliest examples of the St Thomas Cross tradition, stand on either side of the throne. Inscriptions in Pahlavi, the administrative language of the Sasanian emperors of ancient Persia, are engraved around the stone slabs of these crosses. Since the script is no longer in use, the inscriptions have not yet been deciphered with certainty.
Kottayam Valiyapalli is an important church under the Knanaya Jacobite Syrian Church headquartered at Chingavanam.
From the church courtyard, the Meenachil River can be seen winding below. On leaving the church, Valiyangady Street lies to the right. This was an area where Knanaya merchants settled and lived. Their traditional houses can still be seen here.
After Thazhathangady, Valiyangady, which emerged around the middle of the sixteenth century, became an important market for luxury goods and spices. Today it is primarily a residential neighbourhood, and one has to reconstruct its former commercial glory through imagination.
Kottayam Cheriyapalli is the second Christian church established in Kottayam town. Its architectural character combines Portuguese-Gothic influences with traditional Kerala architecture. The courtyard is enclosed by a laterite-stone wall of the distinctive “Aanappalla” style, resembling the compound walls of temples, with stone lamps placed at intervals.
The church grounds are exceptionally green, with lawns and flowering plants.
Kottayam Cheriyapalli was established in AD 1579 on land granted tax-free by Kotha Varma, the Thekkumkoor king, for the Vadakkumbhagakkar, or Mar Thoma Nasranis, who separated from Kottayam Valiyapalli.
The tombs of Mar Gabriel, who served as Metropolitan of the church, and Punnathra Geevarghese Mar Dionysius, who laid the foundations for English education in Kottayam, are located in the sanctuary.
The sanctuary, its side walls and the upper galleries are decorated with murals painted using natural pigments. These seventeenth-century paintings were executed in a European style but employed the techniques of Kerala mural painting. The walls depict the final moments of Christ’s life, from the Last Supper to the Resurrection. Unlike traditional Jewish dress, the figures are depicted in European-style clothing.
The image of the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus in the sanctuary was modified at a later period. St Paul and St Peter are depicted beside it. These murals are internationally renowned.
To the south-east of the church stands the historic parsonage, or Manikakettu. This architecturally distinguished building witnessed several important events in the history of the Malankara Syrian Church. Remarkable tempera paintings are also preserved here.
Kottayam Cheriyapalli is an important cathedral under the Malankara Orthodox Syrian Church.
On leaving Cheriyapalli and travelling eastward, the site of the old jail of the Thekkumkoor period can be identified on the right. The house that now stands there is known as Danavil. In Persian, “Danav” means a prison. The house name is the only surviving indication of the former location of the jail.
Further ahead, a roadside market cross can be seen on the left, with St Thomas Mar Thoma Church behind it. From AD 1445 to 1881, the local market of Kottayam, known as Thaliyanthanapuram Market, operated here.
Sir T. Rama Rao, who arrived in Kottayam as Diwan Peshkar in 1879, later reorganised the town around Thirunakkara. The market was consequently shifted from here to the vicinity of Kacherikkadavu. The old market site subsequently came to be known as Pazhaya Chantha, or Old Bazar.
Puthanangady was established around the seventeenth century during the rule of Thekkumkoor. The Thekkumkoor king allotted this area to several prominent Christian families for residence and trade. These families were skilled not only in commerce and agriculture but also possessed knowledge of medicine and other sciences.
The merchants of Puthanangady processed rice grown in the western lowlands and brought it here for trade. Rice, paddy and coconut oil produced in Kuttanad were transported eastward from this market. These commodities were stored in rooms attached to houses and in warehouses.
Two canals extending from the Kodoor River were constructed on either side of the bazaar to allow cargo boats to enter.
A cross that stood in the bazaar was revered by Christians as well as people of other communities. In AD 1731, with the support of Aditya Varma, the last king of Thekkumkoor, a thatched church was built around the cross. It was demolished and rebuilt in AD 1746. The present Kurishupalli was completed and opened for worship in AD 1898.
The stone cross in the sanctuary was erected by St Gregorios of Parumala. The church is one of Kerala’s well-known Mar Thoma pilgrimage centres.
The Kottayam Syrian College, now known as the Old Seminary, was established in AD 1814 under the leadership of Pulikkottil Mar Dionysius, popularly known as Ittup Remban. It grew out of the theological school that had existed at Kottayam Cheriyapalli and was established on the banks of the Meenachil River to the north of the old town, whose former glory had already begun to fade.
It was established not merely as a theological seminary but also with the objective of providing general education.
In AD 1817, the English missionary Rev. Benjamin Bailey became its principal and began teaching English. In AD 1821, Rev. Benjamin Bailey established the first printing press as part of the activities of the Kottayam Syrian College.
Following the severance of relations between the Malankara Church and the English missionaries in AD 1836, the institution was reduced to a Syrian theological seminary.
The chapel of the Old Seminary contains the tombs of Ittup Remban, Pulikkottil Joseph Mar Dionysius II, Vattasseril Mar Dionysius and Dr Paulos Mar Gregorios. The Sophia Centre, a research institution founded by Dr Paulos Mar Gregorios, also functions adjacent to the Old Seminary.
The original building constructed by Ittup Remban is an outstanding example of architectural craftsmanship and contains several unusual architectural features.
Continuing from the Old Seminary, the journey reaches Chungam. Boats carrying hill produce from the east through the Meenachil River had to pass through this point before entering the old town, and a transit toll was collected here.
As the road climbs, the CNIT Training Institute and CMS College High School can be seen on the right. Chalukkunnu was once the settlement of the Chaliyars, traditional textile weavers. The Chettitheruvu that follows was the residential and commercial quarter of the Chettiar cloth merchants.
The next destination on the heritage tour is the Benjamin Bailey Museum, established at the headquarters of the CSI Central Kerala Diocese to present the history of CMS missionary activities in Kottayam.
The museum contains artefacts, archival materials and visual displays that help visitors understand the contributions of Benjamin Bailey and the Anglican missionaries who followed him to education, language and printing.
The printing presses and typefaces used by Rev. Benjamin Bailey at the CMS Press are preserved here. Rare artefacts can also be seen. The museum provides an insight into the various institutions established by the missionary community in Kottayam.
The next destination is CMS College, which began as Kottayam Syrian College and subsequently acquired the distinction of being regarded as India’s first college-level institution associated with university education. It is also regarded as the first English college in South India.
CMS College played a pioneering role in accelerating Kottayam’s educational development. Its beautiful campus, rich in trees and plant life, is distinctive.
Former President of India K. R. Narayanan, historian Sardar K. M. Panikkar, diplomat K. P. S. Menon and physicist E. C. G. Sudarshan are among the many distinguished personalities who studied at CMS College.
Deepika, one of Kerala’s historic newspapers, was founded on 15 April 1887 at Mannanam in Kottayam district under the leadership of Nidhirykal Mani Kathanar, under the name Nasrani Deepika.
In its early years, the newspaper was printed at the printing press at Mannanam. It began as a weekly and later developed into an influential newspaper covering Kerala’s social, cultural and political affairs.
In AD 1938, Deepika became a daily newspaper. In AD 1939, the name Nasrani Deepika was changed to Deepika, and publication was shifted to Kottayam.
As one of Kerala’s oldest Malayalam newspapers, Deepika has been part of the social and cultural history of Kerala for more than a century.
Baker Memorial Girls Higher Secondary School in Kottayam occupies an important place in the history of women’s education in Kerala.
The school was founded in AD 1819 by Amelia Dorothea Baker, wife of Henry Baker Senior. At a time when educational opportunities for girls were extremely limited, the principal objective was to provide them with education.
The institution began with a very small number of students. It subsequently expanded and was shifted to its present location in AD 1865.
Over the years, the school developed into an institution offering higher levels of education. It was recognised as a Lower Secondary School in AD 1894 and elevated to Higher Secondary School status in AD 1998.
Education here was provided not only to Christian girls but also to girls belonging to different religious and social communities. The school celebrated its bicentenary in 2019.
Today, under the management of the CSI Central Kerala Diocese, the school remains an important heritage institution in the educational history of Kottayam.
Nagambadam Mahadeva Temple occupies a special place in the history of Kottayam and is closely associated with the life of Sree Narayana Guru.
Around AD 1913, Swami Bodhananda, a disciple of the Guru, is said to have consecrated the Shiva idol here in the presence of the Guru. However, the temple acquired its greatest historical significance when the Guru visited the site on 16 January 1928.
While the Guru was resting under a mango tree in the temple compound, his disciples Vallabhasheri Govindan Vaidyar and T. K. Kittan Writer discussed with him the idea of undertaking a pilgrimage to Sivagiri with prescribed vows and disciplines. The Guru gave his approval.
This was more than the beginning of an ordinary pilgrimage. The Guru instructed that the objectives of the Sivagiri pilgrimage should include the advancement of people through education, cleanliness, organisation, agriculture, industry, commerce, handicrafts and technical training.
On 24 December 1932, the first group of pilgrims departed from Nagambadam.
Nagambadam Temple therefore remains historically significant in the history of the Sree Narayana movement as the place where the idea of the Sivagiri pilgrimage took shape.
Kottayam Public Library, the first public reading room in Kottayam town, was established in August 1882 on the initiative of Diwan Peshkar T. Rama Rao.
The institution began in the heart of the town under the name “Reading Room”. Diwan Peshkar T. Rama Rao was its first president, while the secretary was Rev. John Kay, an Anglican missionary.
The Kottayam Public Library also served as a venue for discussions that led to the formation of the Malayali Memorial in 1891.
Later, a children’s library and Jawahar Balabhavan were established. In 1990, its activities were shifted to a new building on Shastri Road. A foundation stone for expansion was laid in 2011, followed by the inauguration of a new block.
Today, with around 6,000 members and approximately 250,000 books, KPL has developed beyond the role of a conventional library into a multifaceted cultural and knowledge centre.
Malayala Manorama occupies a pivotal position in the history of journalism in Kerala. It was founded in Kottayam on 22 March 1888 as a weekly newspaper under the leadership of Kandathil Varghese Mappillai.
In its early years, it attached great importance to the development of the Malayalam language and literature as well as social progress.
From 1890 onwards, its publication became more regular, and its influence gradually spread across Kerala with Kottayam as its centre.
In 1928, Malayala Manorama became a daily newspaper. The organisation subsequently expanded into printing, publishing and periodicals.
For more than a century, Malayala Manorama has documented Kerala’s social, political and cultural transformations. Today, published from several centres including Kottayam, it remains one of the major heritage institutions that evolved alongside the modern history of Kerala.
The Vayaskara Mooss families belong to the traditional Ashtavaidya medical lineage of Kerala. For generations, members of the family served as physicians to the Thekkumkoor kings.
Their contributions extended beyond medicine to the writing and publication of medical texts, literature and public life. Arya Narayanan Mooss, author of the "Duryodhanavadham" Aattakkatha, and another Arya Narayanan Mooss known for his medical writings, are among the prominent figures of this tradition.
A particularly interesting fact in the history of Kottayam town is that the Vayaskara family also played a role in the early distribution of electricity in the town.
The Vayaskara Palace, rebuilt and presented to the family by the Travancore king, is a heritage building retaining important features of traditional Kerala architecture. The temple dedicated to Dharmashasta, the family deity of the Vayaskara Mooss family, further adds to the heritage significance of the site.
Kottarathil Sankunni, who excelled as a poet, collector of legends and teacher of Malayalam, is one of the prominent personalities in the cultural history of Kottayam.
Through "Aithihyamala", he made an invaluable contribution to Malayalam literature by collecting and recording Kerala’s legends, traditional narratives, temple stories and indigenous knowledge.
Pallippurathukavu Temple at Kodimatha is his family temple. The Kottarathil Sankunni Memorial and Library established in his memory is an important centre of Kottayam’s literary heritage.The KSS School of Arts also provides instruction in painting and music.
The newly established Aksharam Museum at Nattakam is a museum established by the Government of Kerala under the responsibility of the Sahithya Pravarthaka Co-operative Society (SPCS). Using modern technology, it presents the evolution of language, printing, literature and publishing.
The Sahithya Pravarthaka Co-operative Society was founded in Kottayam in 1945 by eminent Malayalam writers. Its original objective was to publish the works of writers and ensure that they received fair remuneration.
Later, through the National Book Stall (NBS), it played a decisive role in the publication and distribution of Malayalam books.
The Aksharam Museum is a permanent repository of the long tradition of the Sahithya Pravarthaka Co-operative Society and Kottayam’s literary and publishing history. It also serves as an important centre where students, researchers and the general public can explore the history of Malayalam printing and literature.