Dr Ashwin P V on Vembanad Lake: An Inland Voyage

Dr Ashwin P V

The Journey: Roots and Roads was a heritage tour that began at Kodimatha Boat Jetty on July 25, with a mission to create a deeper understanding and appreciation of the history, culture, natural heritage, and changing landscapes of Lake Vembanad and its surrounding regions.
The safari began at 9:00 AM, as our boat set out through the serene waters of the Kodur River. As we moved along, the landscape unfolded beautifully on either side, with lush green fields creating a peaceful contrast to the waterways. The journey took us past the historic Travancore Cement Factory and beneath the New Bypass Bridge, offering glimpses of both the region's industrial past and its changing modern landscape.
Adding great depth to the journey was our curator and renowned Kottayam historian, Palikkonam Rajeev, who brought the past alive through fascinating stories and historical narratives. He spoke about the erstwhile Thekkumkoor royals, their old capital at Thalikotta, the emergence of the Thazhathandi market, and the vibrant business and trade activities of those times. His narration transformed the boat journey into a journey through history, helping us visualize the people, places, commerce, and traditions that shaped the region.
One of the fascinating historical sights was an 19th-century lighthouse at Pazhukkanila near Pallom. The area around the lighthouse is known as Kappalchal, a name that itself evokes the region's maritime past. The lighthouse stood as a striking reminder of the historical relationship between the waterways, navigation, settlement, and trade of this landscape.
The journey also opened a fascinating window into the geological history of the region. We were told that areas extending towards Kaduthuruthy and Perunnai were once influenced by the sea, before the landscape gradually transformed into the riverine and agricultural environment we see today. Local accounts of seashells being found during well excavation add an intriguing dimension to this story. More broadly, geological research in the Kuttanad–Vembanad region records substantial subfossil shell deposits and evidence of marine and fluvial sedimentation, supporting the idea of major environmental changes in the region over geological time.
The journey also introduced us to the remarkable network of rivers connected with the Vembanad system. The destinations of rivers such as Pampa, Meenachil, Manimala, and Kodurar were pointed out, helping us understand how these waterways come together to form the larger hydrological and cultural landscape of the region.
Our next stop was particularly intriguing—a Gothra temple, situated amidst a remarkable cluster of large stones that appeared distinctly different from the surrounding terrain. The setting, surrounded by nature and silence, created a sense of mystery and connected us with traditions and cultural practices that have survived through generations.
From there, the boat carried us towards another spectacular sight—a vast field filled with water lilies. The expanse of blooming lilies against the green landscape and calm waters created a breathtaking view. At a distance, we were also shown Valiaveettil Devi temple associated with Saktheya origins near the Malarikkal area, close to Thiruvarp. It offered yet another glimpse into the deep cultural and historical layers of the region.
A particularly enlightening part of the journey was learning about the kayals of Kuttanad and how large stretches of the lake were transformed into agricultural fields. We heard about the pioneering efforts behind the reclamation of kayal lands, including Marthandam, Chithira, and Rani kayals, as well as the alphabetic blocks formed across the vast lake and converted into productive agricultural landscapes.
The stories of the pioneers who undertook these extraordinary reclamation efforts were especially fascinating. The contributions of Peasants and the story of Joseph Murikkan were also discussed, giving a deeply human dimension to the history of Kuttanad's transformation from water-dominated landscapes into some of Kerala's most remarkable agricultural fields. Kuttanad's below-sea-level farming system and its reclaimed agricultural landscapes are well documented as an important feature of the region.
We also visited an old church that is no longer functioning, associated with the story of Murikkan and his wife, and were shown the cemetery believed to be connected with them. Such places, though quiet today, preserve memories of people and communities that contributed to the history of the region.
By noon, the journey had worked up a hearty appetite, and we were treated to a scrumptious local fish lunch. The meal itself became part of the experience, offering an authentic taste of the local food culture and adding warmth to an already memorable day.
The boat itself had a story to tell. We travelled in the approximately 70-year-old boat Vijayalakshmi, whose history is intertwined with that of its philanthropic owner. Knowing the story behind the vessel made the journey even more special—it was not merely a means of transportation, but itself a part of the heritage we were exploring.
On the return journey, we travelled through Puthanthodu before heading back towards Kodimatha. Along the way, the boat made a memorable stop at an old tea stall beside the riverbank. Sitting by the water and enjoying a simple, classy cup of tea offered a beautiful pause—a moment when the pace of the journey slowed down and the charm of the old riverine life could truly be appreciated.
We finally reached Kodimatha Boat Jetty at around 5:30 PM, bringing to an end a day that had travelled far beyond the ordinary idea of a boat safari.
Roots and Roads was much more than a tour. It was a journey through time, nature, culture, agriculture, rivers, geology, and human enterprise. It revealed how the waterways of Vembanad have shaped the lives, livelihoods, trade, traditions, and landscapes of generations. From ancient temples and historic lighthouses to reclaimed kayals, old boats, riverside tea stalls, local cuisine, geological clues, and stories of pioneering individuals, every stop carried a piece of history.
For me, it was a truly worthy and enlightening experience—perhaps one of the most enriching journeys I have undertaken in the last decade. It reminded me that heritage is not confined to monuments and museums; it lives in our rivers, fields, boats, food, places, people, geological traces, and the stories that continue to connect us with our roots.